26th January 2024 | IN PRODUCT NEWS | BY SBID ShareTweetPinterestLinkedIn Collection 2024 The new collection is one of substance, not only for the number of articles being presented, but also and above all for the way in which it probes a variety of topics. To spark the imagination, some ideas are closely associated with the course undertaken so far, while others are slightly more unexpected. For Plain Classics, a small selection of velvets of incomparable quality. Two irresistible alpacas of the utmost softness and an intense luminous cotton that has no equal: three plains of great distinction that speak of pleasure and sumptuous beauty. The exploration of Texturologie continues to be centred on light or natural colours but is also accompanied by some more pronounced chromatic statements. Mottled effects – quite distinct at times – recall the living matter of nature: tree barks, an undergrowth of moss and lichens, rocks, and even references to the animal kingdom. Another direction takes us on a foray into “Modern Crafts” to explore processes, textile experience and artisanal vocations: played out between textural curtains whose transparency adopts new forms, and fabrics for voluptuous seating projects. The Contemporary Archives, poised between classical and contemporary, forge new roads but also focus more closely on familiar concepts that have already impassioned past research. Emotion, light, an elegance bordering on opulence, the reinvention of classical styles, the art of jacquard weaving: the road winds its way through the various spirits of the immortal tiger skin and soft enigmatic labyrinths; it passes through the geometric motifs of suit fabrics, historiated effects reminiscent of jewellery making, abstract revisitations of Japanese figurative art. In constant expansion is the branch of Contemporary Archives dedicated to the nuances of what is generally considered to be a non-colour but in fact is the synopsis of all others: the White Writings, an immersion of pronounced artistic fervour into the most textural and streaky of whites. The Contemporary Archives comprise several new fire-retardant fabrics: with a particular focus on the bicoloured theme, but also and especially with an unmistakable aura of couture. The magical formula of the entire collection remains unvaried: an innate curiosity to increase our knowledge of textile archetypes; a desire to grasp radically new intuitions; a rare “savoir-faire”, thanks to which ideas are transformed into fabric. Dedar Deja Vu Jamais Dedar Dilmun Contemporary Archives The exploration of the most captivating visual narrations pertaining to each period of the past, radically reinterpreted and innovated, is pursued with an eclectic and curious vocation. Vivid and densely woven jacquard velvets interpret the tiger’s skin, the archetypal garment of royals and great leaders, naturalistically interpreted in a shade of deep orange. How to avoid getting lost on entering a labyrinth with its myriad of blind alleys and secret passageways? This archaic and conceptual graphic motif, with its mere semblance of familiarity, lends itself to various interpretations that are almost bewildering. However, the labyrinth itself is inspired by Ariadne to draw a connective thread that becomes gradually more apparent. A new foray into the “white on white” of White Writings is accompanied by various quotations, from the anarchistic doves guided by the spirit of Jean Arp to the tribal suggestions close to Keith Haring’s vision, or the soft neo-Picassian masks. As a tribute to historiated artworks and the meticulous workmanship of goldsmiths, a lavish jacquard celebrates the luminosity of the most precious of metals. Ever fond of the “hidden side” of things, the Archives presents its alter ego, to which fil coupé regales three-dimensionality. The journey continues through other suggestions and abstractions. A soft geometric motif of couture inspiration is driven by a strong artisanal vocation; an impenetrable jacquard garden recalls the Oriental decorative language with its long bamboo canes, flying creatures and insects; an amazing tempest, interlaced by silky and lamé threads in a honan weave, contributes to enhancing the more abstract side of Japanese art. Dedar Alpaca Alto Dedar Noricum This is the Tiger Speaking: Jacquard Velvet with a Tiger Coat The happiest possible conclusion of a tiger hunt: having fled its pursuers, triumphant, the tiger snuggles down on a sofa, or nestles between curtains that feel soft and cosy. This vividly coloured snug velvet interprets the jungle queen’s skin in its purest and most natural expression. The repetition of stripes scans the fabric rhythmically: the effect is more pronounced on large surfaces but just as appealing on smaller elements, where the stripe is the focal point. A Tiger in the Orangerie: Jacquard Velvet with a Tiger Coat A close-up view of a majestic creature. Its skin pattern is idealized, its stripes soften. The proud feline sheds its ferocity and welcomes cuddles. The sinuous lines of the stripe, conferring an overall rhythm, are the protagonists of a charming and lively jacquard velvet, together with the tiger’s unmistakable shade of orange. A hardwearing fabric with a soft and thick hand-feel. Dedar Tigers Leontigre: Jacquard Velvet with a Tiger Coat The tigers grow in number as they make their way into an abstract jungle. The jacquard velvet is stage to a ferocious conflict between wild felines. The skins form a new pattern of blurred shapes, rich in movement. Stripes devoid of their natural sinuousness, eyes and curly tails are regenerated as ideograms of an enigmatic graphic texture. Dedar Jamu Jungle Jamu Jungle: Labrynthic Velvet Jacquard The lustrous velvet of an animalier geometric motif, poised between the enticing atmospheres of a Twenties’ speakeasy, the stylized language of the Cubists, the American street art of Haring and Basquiat, jazz and hop hop. Between the threads of a jacquard endowed with personality and silky luminosity, a multitude of suggestions generate an impromptu jam session. The large irregular labyrinth – an archaic motif that has found its way into countless art forms – is interpreted in a bicoloured version whose chromatic inspirations range from nature to pop. Promenade Kafkaienne: Jacquard Graphic Motif with Textural Contrasts A bold luminous jacquard, inspired by mid-century Informalism. Gesture, painting, and speed come together in a free and uninterrupted stroke. Matter and colour create strong contrasts: a shiny synthetic raffia, akin to the experimental materials used by Carla Accardi or Alberto Burri, stands out with its lustrous feel against a matt ground, together with small textural knots in silk. A similar contrast is provided by the primordial evocation of the labyrinth and the modernity of the colour palette. Kafkian in the way it takes you by surprise and because it sparks a paradoxical dialogue between different elements: its spirit, however, is more playful than serious. Dedar Promenade Kafkaienne Dedar Deja Vu Jamais Déjà Vu Jamais: Soft Velvet Jacquard with Engraved Effect A jacquard velvet with a full and drapey hand-feel, pervaded by a sense of mystery. Delicately poised between a re-emerging ancestral recollection and the totally unprecedented: “déjà vu” and “jamais vu” in equal parts. The Egyptian mako cotton pile is very thick; the finishing process brings out its flock, while blurring the lines of the pattern. The labyrinth is transformed into an engraving that lends itself to interpretation. A trace of the memory on which the key dimension of colour intervenes: each of the possible monochromatic variants is a door leading to a different world. Contemporary Archives: White Writings Dimodong: Screen-Printed Matka Silk Geometric shapes engage in a lively contrast on matka silk, hand woven on artisanal looms and screen printed. A visual world music attempts to embrace the entire world, encouraging multiple artistic currents to mingle. The interrupted motif evokes the painted figures of certain tribal traditions and their influence in the course of time on authors such as Keith Haring or Leni Riefenstahl. Colours range from the Kaolin of Piero Manzoni’s Achrome works to auriferous minerals and earthy tones. Each of the two spirits – drapey fabric or wallcovering – is willing to live alone or cohabit. Dedar Dimodong Dedar Palomar Palomar: Sinuous Embroidery on Wool A dove traces the sinuous trajectory of its flight, moving freely across the white-on-white fabric that celebrates the formal purity of Jean Arp and Abstract Art. Chain stitch embroidery adds a precious touch to a pure wool textural satin in which overstitching confers greater emphasis to the linear motif. This elegant monochromatic fabric joins a well-established Dedar tradition, that of embroidery on a white ground. Liberabirinto: Textured and Three-Dimensional Velvet A motif of impacting dimensionality peeps out: like a theatre character, it is ready to play its role. Its face has the dynamic forms of Twentieth century avant-garde art movements. Its curvy lines trace an endless to and from on an original velvet that is textural and extremely irregular. The play of tone-on-tone effects enlivens the neutral shades. The long-fibre Egyptian mako pile completes the overall sensation of blossoming softness which, when released, caresses the senses of sight and touch. Dedar Liberabirinto Plain Classics Dedar Alpaca Alto Alpaca Alto: Precious Alpaca Velvet An extremely luxurious alpaca velvet with a very thick pile. Warm, soft, and sensual, touch it and enjoy the sensation of sinking your hand into its deep pile: the fabric itself caresses, embraces, and hugs us. Alpaca and wool come together, just as the three colours used to dye the cloud of yarn create a subtle melange, in a palette that comprises the most classical shades of wool, together with some more personal colour accents. An invitation to accept without hesitation: like that of an elegant outer garment asking to be worn, or a gentle and affectionate animal wanting to be stroked. Monsieur Baudelaire: The Most Sumptuous Cotton Velvet Luminous, soft, and seductive, like the visions of a refined and pleasure-loving poet. This is cotton velvet at its best, sumptuous and beyond compare to the point of being unique, fruit of uncommon material and textile expertise. With an extremely long pile: so thick and deep that several dyeing sessions are needed to absorb the colour and reach the exact intensity of tone required. A cotton of high standing, of regal and luxurious elegance. Such an abundance of luminosity recalls expressions of pomp and splendour that are no longer part of our everyday scenario. Texturologie The research behind the 2024 Texturologie Collection has been conducted on two different fronts. Firstly, a lively medley of mottled and irregular fabrics, which are textural and often highly structured, with a personality that is intentionally artisanal: the spotlight is on yarn, in its countless different nuances. Savoir-faire and an in-depth knowledge of fibres foster a beauty permeated with that of nature: tree bark, rocks and mosses inhabit expressive and comfortable fabrics. Shading, mottled effects, details. Perception changes according to the distance. When viewed close-up, each tonal variation can be appreciated; a few metres away, the overall chromatic impact prevails. The thread turns into a visual expression. Fabrics become unpredictable in terms of material and colour. The intrinsic value of yarns is never an end in itself: rich in content and form, they support elaborate effects. A curious interest in manufacturing and artisanal processes is the driving force behind Modern Crafts, the other side of Texturologie. Its fabrics are alimented by transparencies, subtractions, backlighting. The spectrum of sensations is a vast one, from the softest tactile voluptuousness to wild textural expressions. Suggestions are equally variegated: snowy slopes, straw mats hand made in distant times and places, the peacefulness of a Japanese karesansui. Luxury fibres such as ultra-fine cotton mako, caressing chenille, unrefined linen bouclé — together with techniques and processes such as fil coupé, special finishing processes, or the insertion of slits — pave the way to a universe of natural textures and unprecedented expressivity, to be almost disconcerting at times. Dedar Withering Wind Dedar Deja Vu Jamais Texturologie: Mottled and Irregular Cestrum: Luminous Canvas Weave Jute and light, the odd couple. A bulky yet elegant plain weave with an amazing touch of luminosity, quite a rarity for the most distinctive fibre of its composition. An intervention of great textile expertise has added a scintillating thread, interlaced with intentional irregularity, to the matt canvas weave in cotton/jute string. The matt surface entraps and reveals uncommon glints, to create an effect akin to metallic enamel. This unpredictable, natural-looking weave has the personality of macrame bags and straw hats. Hurluberlu: Irregular Macro Tweed A macro tweed of sartorial inspiration with a lively artisanal character. The introduction of irregular yarns transforms the bulky ground weave and confers an haute couture personality. The complex construction exploits a rare textile expertise. It combines two threads of a totally different nature: a particularly textural ondé yarn in linen and wool and a cotton ribbon, which differ not only in terms of fibre but also in thickness. The ivory and linen combination is always associated with a chromatic note which may be more delicate or more contrasting, according to the variant. The overall effect evokes the colours and atmospheres of the wilderness. Dedar Hurluberlu Texturologie: Modern Crafts Minimal Moves: Soft Jacquard Chenille An abstract chenille, an irregular jacquard of broad scope, endowed with the voluptuousness of velvet. Ideally balanced between material exuberance and expressive loveliness, between elegance and durability. The fibre is a special variety of chenille that seduces at first sight: the special finishing process has conferred even greater softness to a smooth round thread of exquisite quality. A voluptuous fabric, with a soft and compact hand-feel, whose colours range from natural to pastel shades. Dedar Nevicava Nevicava: Sculptural Fil Coupé A snowfall of geometric shapes: a fil coupé pervaded by a sense of poetry and by the airiness of snowflakes falling from a winter sky. A snowy landscape of abstract forms, poised between art and nature, translates into a sumptuous curtain with echoes of haute couture. The transparent effects are mere suggestions. Symbols are drawn from sculpture, architecture, a graphic design of delicately vibrant strokes. A reference to the textile process — scissors that cut — creates backlit effects and recalls the deconstructed aesthetic of Nineties’ fashion. The variant in combed Egyptian mako is white, pure and drapey; the one in coarse cotton has a fuller hand-feel. About Dedar Founded in 1976, Dedar is a family-run fabric house located close to Como, in the heart of a manufacturing district. Dedar experiments and innovates to attain product perfection through an ongoing dialogue with those craftsmen and textile specialists who are most familiar with the techniques employed in the production of excellent fabrics. Characterized by seductive colour palettes and unexpected patterns, Dedar’s fabrics combine precious yarns with research into fiber technology to offer various solutions for curtains, upholstery and wallcovering of timeless elegance. Visit Profile If you’d like to feature your news or stories on SBID.org, get in touch to find out more. If you’d like to become SBID Accredited, click here for more information.